join

Join with a slip stitch or join with a needle or join with a hook … choice is yours.

With a slip stitch : you would join your circle with a slip stitch into the top of the chain 2.  End of the story.

With the hook … same technique as with a needle:

  • Remove your hook; cut the yarn and pull it all the way through the stitch/loop [where the hook was].
  • Insert your hook below both loops of the next dc [first DC], from the back to the front.
  • Grab the yarn and yarn over and hook it through the stitch so that it is pulled from the front to the back and pull gently.
  • Insert your hook in the last DC you made – through the back loop only, from front to back, and pull it through.
  • Grab the yarn and hook it through that back loop [pull the tail end yarn all the way through].
  • Weave in yarn end. And voilà.

 

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seamless joining in the circle

Often you can see the seam in the round and it’s not necessarily the prettiest sight.  Here is a way to perform a seamless joint.  A bit more time-consuming since each round requests the use of your tapestry needle but the result is worth it!

Here is the picture from Sarah London’s post showing the result of her technique:

Are you joking? 3rd loop?



Doing my first CAL, my week four is as challenging as my first.  This time my hurdle is called the ‘stocking stitch’.  The CAL master keeps talking about that 3rd loop or ‘hump’ and there was no way for me to ‘see’ the obvious … Until I saw this Moogly video that details it all to understand.  Also its blog shows close up pictures and gives clear explanations.  What a relief!  Now I can move on!

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how to – the treble crochet

The treble crochet is a very tall stitch [single crochet beeing the smallest one].

From the chain, wrapping the yarn twice around your hook, skip the first four chains and insert the hook into the fifth chain from the hook.

Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it through the first two loops on the hook to get three loops on your hook.  Repeat the process to keep two loops on the hook and finalize the stitch.

For more detailed explanations, clear illustrations and a video, go to Annie’s Craft Store. She has a wonderful stitch guide!

how to – half double crochet | hdc

The half double crochet [abbreviated hdc] is half tall compared to the double crochet as it eliminates one step from the double crochet stitch.

Unless otherwise stated in the pattern, skip the two first chains from your hook and insert your hook in the third chain from the hook.

And to work the rows, the turning chain should counts as a stitch [check your pattern again].

Further, go to Annie’s Craft Store for very detailed explanations, clear illustrations [as shown below] and a video.

my struggle with the double crochet increase in a circle

A long title for a long ordeal.  You cannot imagine how much I struggled with my 4th row! I frogged it an incredible amount of times.  Unbelievable.  But I finally managed it.  Here is a recap to make the perfect beanie – in my opinion.

Row #1 – start with my favorite way: chain 3 then work your next stitches into the third chain from the hook.  Slip stitch to close that first round.  For this example, we will do 12 stitches, the chain stitch is counting as first stitch. You may want to use a marker to indicate the top of your chain.

Row #2 – chain 3.  For this round, you will need to double up the first row.  Each stitch of the previous row will receive 2 DC stitches [so you will work in groups of 2].  Your very first stitch will be placed into the base of the chain 3 [because it counts as a stitch]. Slip stitch to join at the end of the round.  Total: 24 [12 groups of 2 stitches}

Row # 3 – chain 3 [counts as your first double crochet].  In this round, you will work by group of 3 stitches.  Not in the base of the chain, but in the next stitch: 2 DC.  Repeat 1 DC, 1DC [this is your group of 3] all around, finishing the row with …. Slip stitch to join.  Total: 36 [12 groups of 3 stitches].

Row #4 – chain 3.  This is a row with groups of 4:  1 DC [= the chain to start with], 1 DC, 2 DC then repeat 1DC, 1DC, 2DC to reach 48 [12 groups of 4].  Slip stitch to join.

Row #5 – chain 3 and work in groups of 5 [12 groups of 5]: 1DC, 1DC, 1 DC, 2DC … Total 60.  Slip stitch to join.

And keep going the following rounds … groups of 6, 7, 8 etc.

When the right size has been reached, work even.  That means, 1 DC in each stitch [equalling the number of stitches of the last row that you increased], finish each row with a slip stitch and go up a row with a chain 3.   Crochet until the desired length has been reached.

Here is a good website for support with detailed pictures for DC.   For HDC, here is another website to check.

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Crochet #6 – Yarn: I Love this Cotton! 100% cotton in dark denim #306

 

two on two


I did invest in that wonderful stitchpedia [The Big Book of Crochet Stitches] and to facilitate my crochet-life on the go, I made some samples and re-typed the pattern.  No intention to plagia or anything: it’s just for my own convenience instead of carrying that book with me.

Here is my sample of the two on two pattern of page 62.

Chain any multiple of 4 + 1

  • Row 1 – SC in 2nd chain from hook and in every chain across.  Chain 1 and turn.
  • Row 2 – SC in the first 2 stitches then *CH 2, skip the next 2 stitches, SC in the next 2 and repeat the sequence. End with CH 2, skip 2 and SC in last stitch.  Chain 3 [counts as 1st DC in next row].
  • Row 3 – DC in next stitch then *CH 2, DC in next 2 SC and repeat across.  Chain 1 and turn.
  • Row 4 – SC in the first 2 DC then * CH 2, SC in next 2 DC and repeat across.  End with SC in 3rd chain of turning chain.  Chain 3 and turn.
  • Pattern: repeat rows 3 – 4.

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i love bobbles

Popcorns, bobbles … I love them.  They bring a fun bubbly twist to a project.

Here is the Pops and Posts sample I made based on the pattern page 109 of The Big Book of Crochet Stitches [I just retyped below so I don’t have to carry that big book with me when I am not home – the wonder of the iPad].

Take a multiple of 6 + 1.

Row 1 – SC in 2nd CH from hook and then in each remaining stitch.  Chain 3 [counts as 1st DC in following row] and turn.

Row 2 – DC in next DC then *CH 2, skip 2 SC, DC in next SC* and repeat across to last SC.  End with a DC in the last SC. Chain 3 [counts as 1st DC in following row] and turn.

Row 3 – [on the right side]: popcorn stitch [see **** below] in next DC then *CH 2, DC in next DC, CH 2, PC in next DC.  Repeat the sequence to do a  DC in last PC and a DC in the 3rd chain of turning CH-3.  Chain 3 and turn.

Row 4 – DC in next DC *CH 2, DC in next PC, CH 2, DC in next DC and repeat sequence with DC in last PC, DC in 3rd  CH of turning CH-3.  Chain 3 and turn.

Row 5 – DC in next DC *CH 2, PC in next DC, CH 2, DC in next DC and repeat sequence with PC in last DC, DC in top of turning CH-3.  Chain 3 and turn.

Row 6 – *DC in PC, CH 2, DC in next DC, CH2 and repeat.  End with DC in last DC, DC in top of turning chain. Chain 3 and turn.

Pattern: repeat rows 3 – 6.

*** popcorn stitch [abbreviated pop or pc] – Popcorn stitches are usually worked on the right side of the project however there is a way to make them pop towards the back …  See My Idiot’s Guide page 166 for details.

front pop

  • Work 5 DC in the same stitch.
  • Drop the loop from your hook.
  • Insert your hook from front to back under the top 2 loops of the first DC of the group.
  • Grab back the dropped loop with your hook and pull it through the stitch.

Some patterns may request to close the stitch with a CH1 as final step.

back pop: do the same as the front pop but insert your hook from back to front under the top 2 loops of the first DC of the group and finish it the same way as the front pop.

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